difficulty: AD
altitude: ~3900
month: August
The normal route (west ridge) is already tough enough. It is rated AD, nor the rock neither the snow or glacier would be a problem. There are just few climbing parts and they are not very difficult. The problem are the brittle stonefields where one is "only" walking. Well, this is the basic ingredience of alpinism on the Bietschorn. I consider it as a bit more dangerous than Matterhorn.
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| Brittle! |
We climbed very high, summit had to be very close. We passed the narrow ridge after Rotteturm in foggy and windy conditions and we were over time a bit. I don't regret that we turned few meters from summit ... well maybe just a bit, but the effort wouldn't be worth it - not for views nor technical obstacles. We would continue only and only because of the summit, nothing more. Chickens ...
The descent, nightmere. It took us about an hour more than ascent. We were not slow or lazy, I think we were very well motivated by every wham of approaching thunderstorm. It just sucks sometimes. And 'sometimes' is sometimes 'often' more than 'sometimes'.
But we somehow managed, arrived on time, almost last guys on the mountain. Although I showed off the day before with words: 'Yep, we'll be back for lunch.' or 'You have to train more man to be fast.'
I was happy to be there with Dada. Ok, it wasn't maybe the best plan I could make for us, but the time there was nice.
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| Was it really that day?? |
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