Slovo autora

Servus, whoever you are. This blog offers you some tips for trips, links and my experiences with given tour. There could be also some interwievs or philosophical thoughs hidden here and there. But don't take them to seriously.
Don't hesitate to contact me in case you want to ask for info and also write comments if you like: tomasjavurek09@SPAMNOTgmail.com


Thursday, July 31, 2014

Langgletscher

difficulty: PD- (through right way)
highest point: 3258 m

The plan was to reach Ebenfluh (Aebeni Flue) but it wasn't realized. The reason was the weather and new snow that we even didn't tried. I am not going to bother somebody who is just interested in pictures and information to talk about that.  I would just refer to the first citation from Messner which can found be here: (not yet). 



IMPORTANT WARNING:
One can see in the pictures above detailed study how went up first day to Hollandia huete (black,red) and how went second day down (green). Let me say that black-red one is wrong path and I really cannot recommend anybody to follow this track.



The path from Fafleralp to glacier is not that straightforward. I think the best way is just keep at the valley on left side of the river as long as possible. One can also go over Annahuete but that seems to be little bit longer.

We reached the glacier at three p.m. what was still quite fine taking into account that we wanted to reach Hollandiahuete till six for dinner. I was just little bit surprised that there are no steps or clear path from other mountaineers. It looked like nobody went this path last days. First part was quite clear, there wasn't  any better way to go.  But then we got to the point where we had to decide where to go and any option looked very nice. I thought we should follow that huge glacier rather then follow left side of the valley and that was bad decision.


Also weather turned to be bad, not so much rain but misty so I had to use just my intuition where to go. There was a lot of Crevasses around and I said myself that I would really not like to spent this night somewhere in the bottom of that cracks. Fortunately they were not covered by firn snow so we could just dodge them quite safely. We almost managed to get over this damn area when some layer of snow started.


This snow on glacier is enemy of every mountaineer because one can not see what is bellow then. It was maybe few hundred metres from Grossi Tolla when the snow caved in under my foots. So I want to say, be really careful when you cross the glacier in the track which is commonly not used.


Second enemy is this mist. You don't know where you are going (that reminds me that I have to buy gps). We got to the point where we started to walk down in all directions. I thought myself "What the hell is that?" how can we go down in the middle of the valley which is going up. There is actually small hill in the middle of the valley which is not that big that one could see it on the map but sufficiently big to be confused in the mist. We just continued along the left side of the valley following the contour till we ended up before one rock falling down to the valley. It had so clear shape that I could recognize that on the map. After few steps in the right direction we found some trash and I knew that we are on the right track. What followed was just long hike up to the Hollandiahuete.


Second day we spoke to two guides and both said that they do not expect that anybody could reach Ebenfluh top today because of soft new snow. And we didn't want to stay at the Hollandiahuete as it is quite expensive (but it is understandable given the position) and we would not be sure anyway that we could reach the top next day. It was difficult decision but we had to give up.


Way down was much easier as we just followed the footsteps from two groups guided by that guides.





To conclude it is amazing place that is really worth to visit. Just keep in mind that it is maybe one of the wildest place in the Alps and can be tough in bad weather. I made a mistakes I failed and  I have learned from that.


Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Balmfluechoepfli

obtížnost: AD (5-)
nejvyšší bod: 1290 m.n.m
trvání: 7 hod (4.5 hod lezení)





Juru samotnou jsme už prolezli křížem krážem. Můj osobní názor je, že je mnohem hezčí v té Švýcarské části. Tentokrát jsme chtěli udělat jednodenní výlet, s trochou lezení, k čemuž je Jura jako stvořená. Vybrali jsme si impozantní stěnu nad Soluthurnem, která nabízí spoustu lehkých i těžkých cest a taktéž nádherné pohledy přímo do severní stěny Eigeru.


Auto jsme zaparkovali ve vesnici pod stěnou a vzrazili jsme po nevýrazne cestičce, až k jižní stěně SG (Sud Grat).  Nasadili jsme sedáky a začli jsme tahat první délku. Nechtělo se mi nasazovat lezečky, protože to vypadalo jako lehká trojka, no a dopadlo to tak, že jsem je nasazoval v půlce délky.


Narazili jsme na nějakou zelenou značku, tak jsem dvě délky tahal po ní asi tak 5-. No pak jsme to ptřebovali trošku urychlit, protože už bylo docela pozdě. V takovém vzdušném místě, kde byl kousek ferraty, jsem se rozhodl to trochu střihnout lesem a ušetřili jsme si tak ze pár délek. Docela to jde, vždy je tam poměrně rozumný způsob, jak se vyhnout obtížným úsekům. Přesto je nutné se trochu dojišťovat za stromy, trochu se ta skál drolí.



Narazili jsme opět na zelenou, a to už jsem ji nechtěl pustit, protože ta závěrečná část, aspoň ze spodu, vypadal exponovaně, a tahle zelená je krásně zajištěná. Měl jsem trochu obavy, co bude následovat. Kdybychom se dostali do nějaký šestky, nemuseli bychom být schopni to vytáhnout a museli bychom to celé slanit dolů, což se mi teda fakt nechtělo. Ještě větší starosti mi ale dělalo to, že jsme měli pořádnýho sušáka a poslední kapky vody pryč. Hold dva a pul litru v tom vedru nestačilo.


Nakonec jsme to dolezli bez problémů a ten vrchol za to úsilí fakt stál. Dokola jsme sešli dolů a já doufal, že se v tom korytu po potoce objeví nějaká voda. Ta se objevila až pod pastvinama plnýma krav a tak jsme dali každý jen doušek. Došli jsme k autu a při pohledu ze spoda jsem nevěřil, že jsme to dali. Pak už se vidím jen na jednom odpočívadle, jak chlemtáme jeden Capi džusík ze druhým. Ten večer jsem vypil aspoň pět litrů.