Slovo autora

Servus, whoever you are. This blog offers you some tips for trips, links and my experiences with given tour. There could be also some interwievs or philosophical thoughs hidden here and there. But don't take them to seriously.
Don't hesitate to contact me in case you want to ask for info and also write comments if you like: tomasjavurek09@SPAMNOTgmail.com


Showing posts with label Jura. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jura. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Du Saleve

Du Saleve is an amazing wall above Geneva, playground for climbers, runners, sky-runners and all the other outdoor activities. It isn't any wild mountain wall anymore but very well equipped net of routes. Better description would be to call it a big open climbing gym. I see larger potential in skyrunning there, please see my project: run-the-wall
where one can find also 3-d model of Saleve.

The knowledge of Saleve is very well provided in plenty web pages. I don't want to bring any new information with this post but rather to summarize that and maybe point out some issues at specific routes.

Important links:
Touristic paths: link
1-length routes: stone
Longer routes:Morgans main-wall
Boulders: boulders
Maps: geoadmin

Please inform me in case that you have any other nice source of information!

WARNINGS:

(I hope I don't have to tell this but:)

- Some of the tourist paths are very difficult!
- Stones are falling down very often, wear the helmet even  for walking tours!
- Don't go there when it is raining, it is limestone!
- There is a risk that big part of the rock falls down. Please see the warnings down at the parking place close to the tennis courts.




Tuesday, August 26, 2014

Pic de Grandeval

Difficulty:  AD (6-)
highest point: ~1000 meters


Next to Balmfluechoepfli this is again very nice mountaineering experience which is dedicated for beginners. But do not underestimate that, most of the lengths are easy but still there is one or two parts which can be quite tough even for experienced climber.



Before we climbed Pic de Grandeval, we spent one day in Pelzli, nice rocky area close to Basel which offers many routes of several difficulties. I am sure that this area could be visited by beginners as well as by professional climbers and everybody would find some nice route of his level. We spent night in some cave at the top of that rocks which is quite difficult to find and access but if you like sleeping at romantic and exposed places than it really pays out to find this place. 



Pelzli. View form the cave where we slept.



Next day we continued to Moutier to climb the route "La Balade" to summit of  Pic de Grandval. We lost our camera and keys unfortunately so we have pictures only from Venca's handy. If somebody find small camera and green keys there, please let me know.



The rout itself was quite nicely secured such that one feels quite save there. Only problem we had after second length when we find out that it would be quite difficult to rope down because there was nothing suitable to hold the rope. Weather seemed to bring some storm at that point so I was little bit afraid but we could not do anything else than continue. Third length is supposed to be most difficult but we choose the rout totally on the left which was totally easy. Some problems appeared during the fifth length which was really tough for me mainly because there could happen some injury if one fall down even secured. Just because of this, I think, it should be better secured or not labelled as for beginners.

Enjoy Jura mountains and if somebody make this route don't hesitate to write a comment down here.





Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Balmfluechoepfli

obtížnost: AD (5-)
nejvyšší bod: 1290 m.n.m
trvání: 7 hod (4.5 hod lezení)





Juru samotnou jsme už prolezli křížem krážem. Můj osobní názor je, že je mnohem hezčí v té Švýcarské části. Tentokrát jsme chtěli udělat jednodenní výlet, s trochou lezení, k čemuž je Jura jako stvořená. Vybrali jsme si impozantní stěnu nad Soluthurnem, která nabízí spoustu lehkých i těžkých cest a taktéž nádherné pohledy přímo do severní stěny Eigeru.


Auto jsme zaparkovali ve vesnici pod stěnou a vzrazili jsme po nevýrazne cestičce, až k jižní stěně SG (Sud Grat).  Nasadili jsme sedáky a začli jsme tahat první délku. Nechtělo se mi nasazovat lezečky, protože to vypadalo jako lehká trojka, no a dopadlo to tak, že jsem je nasazoval v půlce délky.


Narazili jsme na nějakou zelenou značku, tak jsem dvě délky tahal po ní asi tak 5-. No pak jsme to ptřebovali trošku urychlit, protože už bylo docela pozdě. V takovém vzdušném místě, kde byl kousek ferraty, jsem se rozhodl to trochu střihnout lesem a ušetřili jsme si tak ze pár délek. Docela to jde, vždy je tam poměrně rozumný způsob, jak se vyhnout obtížným úsekům. Přesto je nutné se trochu dojišťovat za stromy, trochu se ta skál drolí.



Narazili jsme opět na zelenou, a to už jsem ji nechtěl pustit, protože ta závěrečná část, aspoň ze spodu, vypadal exponovaně, a tahle zelená je krásně zajištěná. Měl jsem trochu obavy, co bude následovat. Kdybychom se dostali do nějaký šestky, nemuseli bychom být schopni to vytáhnout a museli bychom to celé slanit dolů, což se mi teda fakt nechtělo. Ještě větší starosti mi ale dělalo to, že jsme měli pořádnýho sušáka a poslední kapky vody pryč. Hold dva a pul litru v tom vedru nestačilo.


Nakonec jsme to dolezli bez problémů a ten vrchol za to úsilí fakt stál. Dokola jsme sešli dolů a já doufal, že se v tom korytu po potoce objeví nějaká voda. Ta se objevila až pod pastvinama plnýma krav a tak jsme dali každý jen doušek. Došli jsme k autu a při pohledu ze spoda jsem nevěřil, že jsme to dali. Pak už se vidím jen na jednom odpočívadle, jak chlemtáme jeden Capi džusík ze druhým. Ten večer jsem vypil aspoň pět litrů.