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Tuesday, January 26, 2016

Iceclimbing Lac Blanc

altitude: ~1200
attitude: stay alive
season: January 2016
reason: be alive

Vogesen, Vosges, Vogézy. They are full of contrasts. They were already glorified in this blog, see Martinswand or Spitzkoepf. This time, we decided that we are old enough to try something for big guys. The ice above Lac Blanc is comparable with what I have seen in much higher mountains. The only issue is, that really good conditions for ice-climbing at this rock appears only for few weeks in January. That means, that when the ice is there, it is surely occupied by other big guys, no matter what the weather is.

Firstly, please check this page: camptocamp
It is showing the position, access routes (yes, you need to go up to that rock with a statue and further up to the mountain to access the icy face). But more importantly, there are two pictures with the labels of possible routes, and not only fashion collection of  pictures of stylish climbers in stylish positions two meters above the ground, like in this blog actually. We climbed the routes 8, 10 and 11, since the 1-6 were occupied for the whole day.

The routes 1-6, always occupied.
The access to the other routes than 1-6 is however little bit complicated. We used some more or less natural path, but it was already walking at II UIAA grade, see picture below.

When we approached the icy wall, we were surprised by the extent of the ice. It is actually as large as the bottom one with the routes 1-6. The first route 10 has approx. 45 m, so we did it in two pitches. The other two are shorter, but steeper. Nevertheless, I can recommend all of them. Also the exposure is great there, since the routes take place in the upper part of the face. More info one does not need. Just go there.

the advertisement of the Singing Rock
mrqa and his shot, route 8

a big guy collection: me in the action, route 10

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