Weissmiess

difficulty: PD+
altitude: 4023 m.
date: 24.4.2015

I was little bit scared of winter ascents after bad experience on Grand Paradiso, but even though we (me and Venca) decided to give a try to Weissmiess in early spring. Conditions have been still winter-like, but avalanche risk was set to 2nd degree what means "quite" safe. I think we decided for the most optimal route (see the map) given the snow condition, we didn't risk any avalanche at all. Note that the south slopes above the Almagelleralp were already without snow.

We crossed the Zwischenbergpass at the same day and found nice place to dig ourselves to the snow. Maybe Venca wanted convince me down in the valley that we should take a tent, but he didn't said a word and I really didn't want to carry three more kg those 1800 meters of altitude. So we spent few hours in nice snow bivak in some state close to sleeping.

Early morning. It was a fight. Me against my sleeping bag. I won and Venca as well. Things started to work better after first sips of hot tea. We prepared our equipment and after while, we are rising up the summit on very solid firn. Sun is rising up together with us. We are here totally alone. I am following some very old steps in the snow. Nobody, nowhere, solitude, silence. Just the wind and our breaths.   

There is few technical steps at the ridge but nothing serious. Little bit more serious is the snow ridge bellow the summit but there are also worse ones in the Alps. We are reaching the summit with no difficulties and very happy that everything run smoothly.

The way back to the car was long, at least in my mind. But it is the price for nice summit. One should not think about beer down in the valley, otherwise it is even longer.  Let me note that those 2500 m of altitude to the summit and back to the parking place have been done in 24 hours, what I find quite nice.