difficulty: V+/VI- climbing grade
altitude: ~1600 m
The west face of Gross Mythen is standing right above the Schwyz. Three routes are depicted nicely in my twenty years old guide book (Urs Loetscher), crossing the wall in straightforward manner. All of the routes at the level of VI climbing grade, ... but, the routes are very old and therefore underestimated. This is quite challenging quest (for me, not for some of my friends) which I wasn't really sure that we can manage. But my climbing partner (Mrqa) was very enthusiastic about that and I had to keep on track with him (I don't want to be a chicken, right?).
The route we intended to climb has a name "Hampeissiwaeg" (whatever it means). There should be also "Alte Direkte" on the left from this route, but a lot of own belay equipment is needed there.
The truths remains the same as usual when we two go play outside. The route is lost, then some climbing with own belay, then we end up somewhere where it is not worth to be and we finish our tour with abseiling using our own belay stations (usually some not trustable stone or piece of grass).
The first pitch was quite easy. We followed some well-secured route starting exactly at the place I expected our intended route. After a while, we realized that it goes to much to the left, but who cares, it is nice climbing and well-secured. Also I expected that in the worse case there has to be "Alte Direkte" on the left.
But we somehow lost that route, (I am not sure how) and the second pitch was with our own belay. I caught an Elvis type shaking as never before but I couldn't really stop. I didn't believed that belay even for sitting nor for falling down. Fortunately, we found the route again after the second pitch (the steps to the left from the second belay station at the second picture ).
The third pitch was Mrqa's turn again. I have to admit that I had a serious troubles on that slabs as there are sometimes not really good holds. The fourth pitch, again my turn, shity rock, falling stones. Fifth pitch. Fifth pitch? No way guys, the well secured route ends exactly at the middle of that wall. There is some material left at the belay station, maybe somebody plans to finish that rout in next years. What now? I still believed in some better way from there than rappelling down. I convinced Mrqa to try that grassy terrace which was on the left above us. So he did with own belay. I don't know if he danced like me or Elvis, but when I balanced at that slab, I knew that he had to have internal fight with fear.
No other way from the terrace than to rappel down. But at least, there was a summit book with a last outing from 2002. We were nearly to satisfied by writing our names there. Never again, not at this face.